The Kathmandu valley holds seven UNESCO World Heritage sites inside an hour's drive of each other, and most visitors see three of them badly. This day is built around the light and the prayer times instead of the map: Boudhanath while the morning kora is still turning, the ghats at Pashupatinath before the crowds, the old royal squares through the middle of the day, and Swayambhunath for the sunset over the whole valley.
How the day goes
- 08:00 — Boudhanath, while the morning kora is still turning
- 10:00 — Pashupatinath, the ghats and the cremation platforms
- 12:30 — Lunch in Patan, off the square
- 13:30 — Patan Durbar Square and the Newari courtyards behind it
- 16:30 — Swayambhunath for the last of the light over the valley

Good to know
- Shoulders and knees covered — several of these are working temples, not museums
- Pashupatinath is an active cremation site; photography is restricted and we will tell you where
- Site entry fees are not included; budget around US$ 30 for the four
- The order flips in winter, when the light goes early










